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Purchase

Buying a home — whether it's your first or your fifth — comes down to picking the right loan program, getting cleanly pre-approved, and closing without surprises. We're direct on Conventional, FHA, VA, USDA, Jumbo, Construction, and Renovation, so we run every option against your scenario instead of pushing you into the one we happen to do best. The payment calculator on this page shows you the all-in monthly across every program — base payment, mortgage insurance, and program-specific upfront fees in one place.

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Key Benefits

  • Every major program in-house — Conventional, FHA, VA, USDA, Jumbo, Non-QM, Construction, Renovation
  • Real pre-approval (not pre-qualification) — credit pulled, income verified, AUS-approved
  • Down payments from 0% (VA, USDA) to 3% (Conventional 97, HomeReady, Home Possible) to 3.5% (FHA) to 20%+
  • Seller credits, gift funds, and down-payment-assistance programs all welcome
  • Texas + multi-state branch — we know the local rules (option fees, escrow timelines, title customs)
  • Real numbers up front — what you see in pre-approval is what you see at closing

Who It's For

First-time buyers building credit and savings, move-up buyers stretching for the dream home, investors adding rental properties, Veterans using their VA benefit, and anyone who's tired of getting a different answer from every lender they call. If you want a straight conversation about what you can actually afford and which program makes most sense, you're in the right place.

Estimate your monthly payment

All-in monthly across every major program — switch between Conventional, FHA, VA, USDA, and Jumbo to see how the mortgage insurance and upfront fees change the real number.

Loan details

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Auto-tiered by LTV — typical PMI runs 0.3–1.5% based on credit and LTV. Override above if you have an actual MI quote. Removable at 20% equity.

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Tax % applies to the purchase price (assessed value).

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Estimate only — program fees and MI use standard published rates. Not a loan offer, rate lock, or APR. Contact us for a personalized quote.

Estimated monthly payment

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Principal & interest
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Property tax
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Home insurance
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HOA
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First 12 months (principal & interest)

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Pre-approval vs pre-qualification — only one of them counts

Pre-qualification is a 5-minute online estimate based on what you self-report. It carries no weight with sellers because nothing has been verified. Pre-approval is the real thing — we pull your credit, verify income and assets with actual documentation, and run your file through automated underwriting (AUS) to get a real approval. Then we issue a letter that sellers and agents take seriously.

Get pre-approved before house-hunting — not after. It avoids the heartbreak of finding the perfect home and discovering it's $40K above what you actually qualify for, and it puts you in a stronger position when you're competing against other offers.

Down payment — what you actually need

The biggest myth in home buying is that you need 20% down. You don't, on almost any program. Here's the actual minimum down payment across every loan we do:

  • VA — 0% down for eligible Veterans, service members, and surviving spouses
  • USDA — 0% down on eligible rural and suburban properties (use the USDA page to check eligibility)
  • FHA — 3.5% down with 580+ credit; 10% down with 500–579 credit
  • Conventional 97 / HomeReady / Home Possible / HomeOne — 3% down for qualifying borrowers
  • Conventional standard — 5% down (3% on the first-time-buyer variants above)
  • Second home / investment — 10–25% down depending on units (FHA/VA don't allow non-owner-occupied)
  • Jumbo — typically 10–20% down depending on loan size

Down payment can come from your own savings, a gift from a family member, an employer assistance program, or a down-payment-assistance (DPA) program — we work with several. PMI applies on conventional loans with less than 20% down but is removable once you hit 20% equity.

Closing costs and seller credits

Closing costs typically run 2–4% of the purchase price — title insurance, recording fees, origination, prepaid taxes and insurance, and your first year of homeowner's insurance. On a $400K purchase that's roughly $8,000–$16,000 in addition to your down payment.

Sellers can pay part or all of your closing costs as a seller credit — extremely common, especially in buyer-friendly markets. Maximum seller credit by program: Conventional 3% (LTV 90.01–95%), 6% (LTV 75.01–90%); FHA 6%; VA 4% of the sales price plus all customary closing costs; USDA 6%. On VA specifically, seller and builder credits can also pay off personal debts (one of VA's underrated quirks).

Lender credits and "no-cost" closings are also options — we take a slightly higher rate and use the lender credit to cover your closing costs. Whether that math wins for you depends on how long you plan to keep the loan; we model both.

How long does the buying process take?

Standard purchase: 30–35 days from contract to close. The fastest we've closed a clean conventional purchase is 17 days; the slowest a contested appraisal stretched to 60+. Construction and renovation take longer because there's a build phase. Streamline refis are the fastest at 21–30 days. The big variables are appraisal turnaround in your market, the speed at which we collect outstanding documentation from you, and whether the title company has any cleanup work on the property.

Quick map of which program fits which buyer

  • First-time buyer, low down payment, average credit — FHA, Conventional 97, HomeReady, Home Possible, HomeOne
  • Veteran, service member, or surviving spouse — VA (almost always wins if you qualify)
  • Rural / suburban property, moderate income — USDA (zero down)
  • Strong credit, 5%+ down, repeat buyer — Conventional (removable PMI is a big advantage)
  • Home above the conforming limit — Jumbo
  • Self-employed without traditional tax returns — Non-QM (Bank Statement)
  • Investor buying a rental — Conventional investment, or Non-QM DSCR
  • Building from the ground up — VA Construction (if eligible) or one of our other construction programs
  • Buying a fixer-upper — FHA 203(k), HomeStyle, ChoiceRenovation, VA Renovation, or USDA Renovation

The Purchase Process

  1. 1

    Get pre-approved

    We pull credit, verify income and assets, run AUS, and issue a real pre-approval letter you can submit with an offer. Free, no obligation, and we tell you what to fix if anything needs fixing first.

  2. 2

    Find your home

    Your agent shops with confidence because they know exactly what's pre-approved. We're available 7 days a week for the inevitable questions during showings.

  3. 3

    Submit your offer

    When you find the one, we sharpen the pre-approval to the exact purchase price and terms — sellers see a strong, specific letter, not a generic one.

  4. 4

    Underwrite & appraise

    Once you're under contract, we order the appraisal and underwrite the file. Most files clear underwriting in 1–3 weeks; appraisal takes 1–2 weeks.

  5. 5

    Close

    Final walkthrough, signing at the title company, keys in hand. Typical timeline: 30–35 days from contract to close on a normal purchase. Construction and renovation timelines are longer; FHA/VA/USDA streamlines on a refi are shorter.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much house can I afford?

Two ceilings — the one your lender will give you and the one you'll be comfortable with. Lender ceiling: typically 43–50% of your gross monthly income going to total monthly debt (mortgage + cards + cars + student loans). Comfort ceiling: usually lower, especially with kids, daycare, or saving goals. We run real pre-approval numbers and tell you the lender max — then we have an honest conversation about what monthly payment you'd actually want to live with.

What's the difference between pre-approval and pre-qualification?

Pre-qualification is a self-reported estimate — useful for window-shopping, worthless for making real offers. Pre-approval is the real thing: we pull your credit, verify your income (paystubs, W-2s, tax returns), verify your assets (bank statements), and run your file through automated underwriting. The pre-approval letter we issue means we'd actually fund the loan — sellers take that seriously. Always get pre-approved before house-hunting, never just pre-qualified.

How much do I need for a down payment?

From 0% (VA, USDA) to 20%+ depending on program. Most first-time buyers land somewhere between 3% and 5% — Conventional 97, HomeReady, Home Possible, and HomeOne all allow 3% down; FHA allows 3.5%; standard conventional allows 5%. We also work with down-payment-assistance (DPA) programs that can layer additional help on top, and gift funds from family are accepted on most programs.

How much are closing costs?

Typically 2–4% of the purchase price — title insurance, recording fees, origination, prepaid taxes and insurance, plus your first year of homeowner's insurance. On a $400K purchase that's roughly $8K–$16K. Sellers can often cover part or all of this as a seller credit (very common — see the seller credits FAQ), or we can structure a "no-cost" loan where a slightly higher rate generates a lender credit that covers your closing costs.

Can the seller pay my closing costs?

Yes — and it's extremely common. Seller credit caps by program: Conventional 3% (95% LTV), 6% (90% LTV), 9% (75% LTV); FHA 6%; VA 4% of the sales price plus all customary closing costs; USDA 6%. On VA specifically, seller and builder credits can also pay off your personal debts to qualify you (one of the most under-used quirks in VA lending). When we write your offer, we tell you exactly how much seller credit to ask for to cover what you actually need.

What is earnest money?

Earnest money is a deposit you put up when your offer is accepted to show you're serious — typically 1% of the purchase price (range 0.5–3%). The seller holds it (usually at the title company) until close. At closing, it's credited to your down payment or closing costs. If you back out for a reason allowed by your contract (financing falls through, inspection issues, appraisal problems), you get it back. If you back out for no contract-allowed reason, you usually lose it.

What's an option fee (Texas)?

In Texas, the option fee is a small fee paid to the seller in exchange for a defined option period — usually 5–10 days — during which you can back out of the contract for any reason and get your earnest money back. The option fee itself (typically $200–$500) is non-refundable but is usually credited to your closing costs if you proceed. Most other states don't have this exact structure; we'll walk you through whatever applies in yours.

How long does the home-buying process take?

Standard purchase: 30–35 days from contract to close. We've closed clean files in under 20 days; we've also had contested appraisals stretch a deal to 60+. Construction takes 4–8 months for the build plus closing; renovation depends on scope. The big timeline variables are appraisal turnaround in your market, how quickly you get us outstanding docs, and any title cleanup work needed on the property.

Can I buy a home with bad credit?

Depends on how bad. FHA goes as low as 500 (with 10% down) or 580+ (with 3.5% down). VA has no published minimum credit score — we go on a residual-income basis when scores are below 620 with the right compensating factors. USDA needs 620, but accepts no-score borrowers if at least one borrower has a score. Conventional standard needs 620, with best pricing at 740+. If your credit needs work, we'll tell you exactly what to fix and how long it takes — sometimes it's 30 days, sometimes it's 6 months, but it's almost always fixable.

Are there first-time-buyer programs available?

Plenty. The big ones: Conventional 97 (3% down, no income cap, first-time buyer required), Fannie HomeReady (3% down, income at or below 80% AMI), Freddie Home Possible (3% down, same AMI rules), Freddie HomeOne (3% down, no income cap, first-time buyer required), FHA's standard 3.5% down program, and VA $0 down for eligible Veterans. On top of these we work with state and local DPA (down-payment-assistance) programs in our footprint — gift funds, repayable seconds, and forgivable grants depending on the program.

What's the difference between fixed and ARM?

Fixed-rate locks your rate for the entire loan — most common is 30-year fixed. ARM (Adjustable-Rate Mortgage) gives you a fixed rate for an initial period (typically 5, 7, or 10 years) then adjusts based on a market index. ARMs usually price slightly lower than fixed-rate today, so they can make sense if you're confident you won't keep the loan past the fixed-rate period. Most owner-occupied buyers go fixed; investors and short-term holders often go ARM.

Should I get a 30-year or 15-year?

The 30 keeps your monthly payment lower and gives you cash-flow flexibility — extra money can go to retirement, kids, emergency savings. The 15 gives you a lower rate and dramatically less lifetime interest, plus you own the home outright twice as fast. A common middle path: take the 30-year for the lower required payment, then voluntarily pay an extra ~$300–500 a month toward principal. You get most of the equity-building benefit of a 15 with the cash-flow safety of a 30.

Ready to get started?

Let's talk through your options. No pressure, no obligation — just straight answers from a team that does this every day.

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Equal Housing Opportunity

Austin McKnight — NMLS #322977 | Branch — NMLS #1161933 | Primary Residential Mortgage, Inc. (PRMI) — NMLS #3094

PRMI NMLS: 3094. PRMI is an Equal Housing Lender. Some products and services may not be available in all states. Credit and collateral are subject to approval. Terms and conditions apply. This is not a commitment to lend. Programs, rates, terms and conditions are subject to change without notice. This office is licensed and examined by the Office of Consumer Credit Commissioner of the State of Texas. Department of Financial Institutions CL-3094.

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